Wintle: Clothes For Grown-ups
Sun Jan 25, 2:00 PM EST
Godfrey Deeny

Paris – If anyone doubted how big a thing plaid is going to be this fall, then they should have made it along to the fall 2009 men's collection of Wintle, the most elegant fashion statement so far from this talented, young Australian-born designer.

His smoothly opulent show on Saturday climaxed with a classy pick of faded, mist-weathered tartans used in Cary Grant swing trenches, trim gent-up-from-the-country suits and the odd matching bow tie.

Best of all, designer Jsen Wintle grew up a little this season, tweaking many of his signature looks with a smart quilted detailing, using this trick on top coat shoulders, sleeves and, best of all, some great leather motor-bike jodhpurs.

"Maximalism with minimalism," commented Wintle, after earning enthusiastic applause from the crowd on the rue Richelieu show space.

Though Wintle's got plenty of tailoring chops, his silhouette can be a tad stiff, and the collection, while highly professional, was out of step with the new sobriety engulfing men's fashion, as designers grapple with a post-growth planet.

However, Wintle does cut a mean suit, as his micro, six-button jacket and peg leg pants proved. He also has a good take on accessories, like natty quilted leather shoes, a clever logo - a punchy W - and a sense of understated opulence, which is unquestionably chic.

"I don't think it's the right time for jeans and trainers," said Wintle using the British term for sneakers, at a dinner he hosted post show.

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