Givenchy's Tisci goes darker with S&M men's show
Fri Jan 23, 4:00 PM EST

PARIS – The king of Goth just got darker. Riccardo Tisci delivered a strong, kinky menswear collection on Friday that was infused with a medieval S&M sensibility.

The clothing showed for the Givenchy 2009-2010 winter was tight, cinched onto the body with not-so-comfy looking laces and almost menacing straps.

Models appeared poured into the leather pants, which were studded with laces up the front and zipped up the back to the knee. Woolen sweaters that look perfectly conventional from the front were cut out into a striking pattern of straps on the back.

One model wore a sweater whose loose knit evoked chain-mail. The footwear, mostly knee-high boots, also took its cue from knights and was made, like armor, out of articulated strips.

Layering, a theme at Belgian designer Kris Van Assche's show, was also a major element here. Tisci layered shorts over thick black leg-warmers with vertical and horizontal ribs and sent out shearling jackets over featherweight sweaters.

Only the last few looks in the collection, three slim, well-tailored suits, made a stab at being conventionally marketable. The rest was pure id.

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